When my son was a baby, my wife and I spent many Monday nights having early dinners at Le Bouchon. It was perfect: He'd rest in his car seat beside us, the noise muffled his fussiness, the food was ...

For probably the hundredth time, I took my seat in Le Bouchon’s timeworn dining room for lunch with an old friend last week. Coincidentally, co-owner Nicolas Poilevey led us to the same corner ...